Josette DeLoach

It wasn’t long after falling head over heels for surfing that I started to wonder if, at the ripe old age of 27, that perhaps I had missed my prime. Absorbing any and all of forms of surf media that I could get my eyes on, it appeared that if you hadn’t started surfing before you started walking, you might as well not even bother. Meeting my friend, Josette DeLoach, quickly pulled me out of that mindset and opened my eyes to all the potential that lay ahead. She is an inspiration, both in and out of the ocean, casually paddling out on some of the biggest hurricane swells , sharing both a smile and stoke on some of summer’s smallest days and filling flat spells with mountain bikes, paddleboards and snow skis.

Where were you born? When did you first start surfing?
Montreal, Canada.  About 17 years old… My earliest influence in surfing was Joe Roland, my first boyfriend who happened to hold the East Championship Title and then Shaun Tomson who held the World Championship Title…just a coincidence! Ha! Ha!

I’ve seen a couple of photos and some references to your time on the North Shore (presumably in the 70’s?), can you tell us a little bit about that?
My twin sister, boyfriend and I hitched a ride across country in three days from JAX to LA then flew on to Hawaii. We lived and worked on the North Shore at the time of the invasion of the Australian, South African and Brazilian surfers (early 70’s) This trip was to be a vacation which ended up lasting 9 years for me…..Lots of great years on the North Shore of Oahu in the pro surfing world!

 Have you traveled anywhere else?
Japan several times, Australia, Costa Rica and my favorite Mexico

What was it like being a woman surfer in the 70’s?
Not as many surfer girls in the water so it was unique to see a girl out in the lineup…but basically the same…you have to prove yourself to gain respect…guys still tend to take off on a girl way more than a guy!

You have a twin, Josie, who surfs also, what was it like growing up with her?
Super fun…I always had a best friend for all my adventures while growing up…We had some real moments out in the water together catching some great waves!

 How long have you and Mike been married? How did you meet?
It’s gone by so fast, 25 years this coming March…We met through our good friend Sandy Forsyth of Aqua East surf shop…Mike has been my greatest influence and partner in life…My world champion husband!  We love surfing together as well as many other sports…Mountain biking and snow skiing are just a few of other passions we have…a couple that plays together stays together!

 Have you made any major life choices based on your desire to surf?
Surfing has been a huge part of my life….all the adventures too numerous to count…great surf sessions with my husband and friends…all the friendships it has brought me along the way! Surfing has given me so much pleasure and fond memories! Surfing just followed me in life…I wouldn’t change a thing!

 You are in fantastic shape! How do you stay so fit?
I’ve been athletic all my life…working out to stay in shape for my sports has always been a priority…grateful for my health and strength especially on those extra long paddle out surf sessions in Hawaii!

What’s next for Josette?
As long as I stay healthy and strong, my plan is to continue the “stoke” as long as possible!

 

Photo Credit: Eddie and Pattie Pitts, 911SurfReport.com

Apple, Avo, Kidney Bean Salad

While I believe that the best thing to improve your surfing is, well, surfing, I also believe that there are benefits to be gained from eating clean. I made up this simple salad a couple of years ago after coming home from one of those summer sessions where the waves were nothing to brag about, but the water was crystal clear, the wind was light and little peelers kept rolling through. Having not brought snacks or water with me because, “I’m only gonna surf for an hour,” (or two or three, four?!)

I had used up most of my reserves and wanted to eat everything in sight. I was desperate for something quick, filling and tasty. I already knew that avocados and kidney beans compliment each other, but as soon as I spied an apple in the fruit bowl, my taste buds demanded that I find out what they might all taste like together. Turns out, they taste amazing together and this salad is still one of my favorite post surf meals.

If your kidney beans are already cooked, this recipe can be thrown together in less than five minutes.

Apple, Avo, Kidney Bean Salad

1 apple (any variety), cored and diced

1 avocado, diced

1 ½ cups cooked kidney beans

2 Tbsp sour cream (or, in my case, vegan sour cream substitute)

½ tsp chili powder

pinch of salt (optional, especially if you are using canned beans)

pinch of garlic powder (optional, but highly recommended)

Throw everything into a bowl and mix thoroughly. Enjoy!

Serves 2

Acknowledging Limitations

Mick Fanning didn’t win the world title in question during this Tracks interview from last December. Since it was Gabriel Medina’s to lose I don’t think that reflects much on Mick’s talent or performance. What struck me in particular about this article is the open admission that there are things other surfers do better. You don’t often get to read such clear evidence that being the best requires one to honestly assess their weaknessess or limitations. Mick’s coach is quick to point out that Mick can sideslip into the barrel if that’s what is required but I looked up the definition of “au fait” and realized that he was pretty clearly indicating that John John and Kelly have an advantage when it comes to the “freefall late drop” at Pipe. This discussion seems to to stem directly from the performances of these athletes at the 2013 Pipe Masters which you can watch at the links below. Another thing I like about this interview is hearing that Mick uses immediate video feedback in his training to see what’s working and what isn’t, which is refreshing given the statements about Mick knowing how he wants to surf and what kind of surfing he wants to be known for.

One of Mick’s “classic roll-in lefts”:

John John’s recap of his 2013 Pipemasters run (plenty of freefall sideslipping):

The concept of the best surfers knowing their limitations was also on display for me in October of 2014 when I went to see Thundercloud at Sun-ray Cinema. The film gives a little historical background on Cloudbreak in Fiji and then goes into depth about 3 epic days in 3 consecutive years (2010, 2011, and 2012). The movie is long but a must see for dedicated surf fans. The same wave will often be shown 2 or 3 times while the surfers who were out on those epic days talk story. The waves showcased in the film are often at the limit of paddle surfing and don’t lose their visual impact on the third time around, especially when you’re hearing what it was like directly from the surfers riding them. Near the end of the film Dave Wassel and Kelly are considering giving it a go after commentating most of the day for a webcast that went live despite the official WCT event being called off. As Wassel tells it a set comes through like none other that day leaving Kelly content to have a beer and watch while Wassel paddles one of the biggest boards ridden that day into one of the scariest waves of the day. You can watch his wave below but the film puts it in context with the unridden set prior that allowed the theater audience to almost feel why some waves go unridden.

Dave Wassel’s 2012 set wave at Cloudbreak (XXL contender):

Come Surf With Us

In the community section of the Surf Asylum website we’ll be telling the overtold stories of traditional surf media through the lens of NE Florida surfing and the undertold stories of the characters and culture that make up the NE Florida surf scene. This will include everything from our take on the Triple Crown of Surfing to interviews with local surf heroes. We also invite you to join us as we work to achieve our surfing goals and share accounts of the realities of being a Florida surfer.

See you in the water,

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