Photo Credit: Kevin Maines

With a southerly ‘winter storm’ track producing consistent surf in the late fall and early winter after an active ‘2023 tropical season’ we seem to be getting the benefits of EL Niño without the drawbacks. The general consensus is that 2023 was a good year of surf and it tracked as a top 3 year for consistency in the 6 years I’ve been keeping records. We had great sandbars up and down the island. I heard comparisons to Costa Rican or Californian beach breaks when the swell was running. You had a choice between short, quick tube rides and decent length walls that would allow 2 to 3 turns. Some days allowed for both.

Notable observations and surprises from 2023

• Short hot summer. While most of us remember a sweltering July, extreme North wind events in June and September bookended summer leading to the smallest number of days (99) with 80°F or above water since I started recording in 2018. It doesn’t seem right to live in Florida and have less than 80°F water for more than 2/3 of the year. The average of the 5 years prior comes to about 125 days with 80°F water.
• No appreciable swell periods of 12 seconds or more in November. It makes sense for spring and fall to have a lot of short period windswell as transitional weather months but I usually expect some long period swell from large North Atlantic storms to mix in at some point. The good day in November was from a system sitting right off of the coast.
• 2nd year in a row where I didn’t notice or personally experience a bad jellyfish outbreak in the fall.
• 2023 tied for 2nd in number of ‘Head High +’ days since 2018, it was 1st in number of days with swell periods of 12 seconds or more in the mix (100, even without November), and offshore wind was distributed fairly evenly throughout the year. We had a lot of onshore wind but we had a lot of light and variable wind or wind switches to balance it out.
• We had a pretty classic, generally small summer. In a seeming contradiction, 2023 had the smallest number of ‘Near Flat to Shin High’ days since I’ve been recording (19). The fact that we run a summer camp may distort the number of days I decide it’s knee high instead of near flat.

Photo Credit: Betzy Mitchell

Top 5 days of 2023 – in chronological order.

• 8/30 – The clean-up from Hurricane Idalia passing West and North. Strong 8 second South swell seems to be a hallmark of the 2023 El Niño season. The rights were excellent. I saw Surf Asylum alumni Kate Heymann push herself outside of her comfort zone and get a couple good lefts and rights. It’s inspiring when young people want to do something enough to push past their fear.
• 9/12 – The first full day of the Hurricane Lee swell. The waves weren’t consistent yet but the sets were solid. Ran into Billy Fortier. The light crowd of friendly faces contributed as much to the day as the waves.
• 9/13 – The most consistent day of the Hurricane Lee swell. Kyle McCarthy and I were looking at a doubled up left that Brady McKenzie was deeper for. Ask him to show you the sequence if you get a chance. It’s not everyday someone gets spit out of the tube in Florida but it’s kind of cool that it can happen here or South Beach, two opposite ends of the state. This day was the most crowded. The time in between sets due to the long period swell made it frustrating at times.
• 9/14 – It feels a bit lazy to award 3 days from the same swell “Top 5” status but I surfed for just over 4 hours and had a couple attempts at some spacious tubes by Florida standards. Hurricane Lee had the kind of track that East Coast surfers hope for at the start of every tropical season.
• 11/18 – A low pressure tracked from South to North off the coast. There was so much South wind offshore that despite the local wind going from North to Northwest there was a solid 11 second ESE swell in the water. If there was one minor quibble with 2023 being a great year of surf it may be that on every hollow day you had to contend with secondary short period wind swell cutting across the waves. I’d say that’s a feature of most beach breaks throughout the world though.

Honorable Mentions

• 5/27 – Heavy, drifty, and more side-offshore than offshore. One of those days it’s hard to prepare for but the good ones had the classic Fernandina look.
• 7/1 – There were so many fun days this year. This day happened to coincide with a Nassau County Special Olympics Surf Team practice. There were a lot of great rides and stand out performances. Luis and Diego, brothers you may know from the checkout line at Publix, were two athletes that thrived this season due to days like this.
• 8/27 – You know it was a good year if a local ESA event had swell and decent wind. Aiden Flynn’s surfing proved deserving of his spot on the 2024 ESA All Star Team. We have a small dedicated district and in just the past 5 years we’ve had 3 All Stars (Noah Poteat, Aiden Flynn, and Michaela Nichols) as well as 2 Marsh Scholarship recipients (Jade Beasley and Emily Flint earned scholarships awarded specifically to competitive surfers). We’re always looking for members and volunteers (especially judges). The Facebook Page ESA First Coast District is the best way to stay up to date.
• 12/16 & 12/17 – The big day and the day after. My first paddle out was brutal but the tide was high so I wasn’t really getting slammed as much as pushed back. I caught one of my first set waves in front St. Augustine’s Gabe Kling. It was unruly and the biggest, heaviest barrels I saw went unridden. The next day was fun. If you didn’t watch it long enough you could have been forgiven for thinking it was flat but the sandbar was as good as it gets providing chest high waves that were a great balance of peaky and fast closer to low tide than you might think to surf.

Photo Credit: Raegan Heymann

Data

1) Wave Heights

2) Water Temperature

3) Wind: Onshore vs. Offshore (Choppy vs. Clean)

4) General Wind Wave Direction

5) Swell Period in Seconds

2022 was a good year in Fernandina surf. Since I’ve been recording (2018) only 2020 surpassed 2022 in the number of days the surf was head high or bigger. 2020 featured 51 head high days, 34 days with onshore wind and 17 days with a mix of onshore and offshore winds. 2022 had 49 days of head high or bigger surf: 22 days featuring predominantly onshore wind, 23 days with a mix of onshore and offshore wind, and 4 head high days where the wind was predominantly offshore. Taking into account that June and July were fairly consistent again this year the only knock against 2022 is that we were hard pressed to find a wave bigger than waist high for the whole month of August, which is typically one of our prime months for surf.

Notable observations and surprises from 2022

• Second consecutive summer of consistent surf. There were no flat days this summer if you were in the right place at the right tide. I even recorded 12 days of fun chest high surf in June and July. The kids have been scoring for summer vacation. In regard to summer camp there were many days big enough to be challenging for beginners.
• An August with no days bigger than waist high is definitely a surprise but it may have set us up for a September to remember. 3 of my top 5 days fell in September, each associated with a named storm.
• I don’t know if it was a lack of surf or personal water time in August but I didn’t notice a severe jellyfish outbreak this year like we’ve had the past several years.
• The December hard freeze is probably still fresh in everyone’s mind. This contributed to a 10 degree water temperature difference between New Years Eve 2021 and New Years Eve 2022. 12/31/21 – 65.5 degrees F, 12/31/22 – 55.5 degress F.
• Notable but not surprising, 3 of what I considered the best days of the year fell within September. September is a good time of year to be in a lot of places for surf but it’s the best time of year for the advanced surfer here in Fernandina. Also the month with the most days of offshore wind (January) also had the most flat days, be careful what you wish for.

Top 5 days of 2022 – in chronological order.

• 9/13 – One of my waves this day reminded me of a heavy California beach break, a set wave from a solid 15 second ESE swell courtesy of Hurricane Earl. This day featured a clean morning session and a clean evening session.
• 9/22 – This was the standout day from Hurricane Fiona. My wipeouts were as spectacular as my makes and surfing felt like a full contact sport. There was a mix of a solid 15 second swell and a solid 10 second swell both out of the ESE. This led to a lot of waves doubling. You had to pick the right ones.
• 9/30 – Erosion and damage from Hurricane Ian closed beaches across the state and we were joined by one of Florida’s finest in Corey Lopez and his family for what some might consider the day of the year. It was burly however, especially at daylight, and due to the proximity and size of the storm, at times there were 3 or more overlapping swell periods. Again it paid to be on the right waves. Corey’s wave selection and choice of line paddling into them made it look easy. The photos made the waves look better than they were. It was powerful, erratic, and exhilarating.
• 11/11 – Another great day of surf coinciding with significant beach erosion across the state thanks to Hurrican Nicole. It took some time to clean up this day and we were racing the tide a bit before it got too shallow but it was a bit easier to read the waves than Ian. Often the 9 – 12 second swell periods like we had with Nicole can hit our sandbars with a little better shape than the 15 second periods we had with Fiona and Ian.
• 12/22 – Overhead set waves in the morning and offshore winds all day. This day featured 9 second periods similar to Nicole. A heavy morning session gave way to a friendlier, playful evening session as the tide turned back in.

Honorable Mentions

• 1/16 – A major South “suck-up” swell ahead of a front. Well overhead on 1/16, flat on 1/17. Bradley Dunham got the shot. There was one wave I’d like another shot at after witnessing the approach of Corey Lopez and his son during Hurricane Ian.
• 3/8 – There was a run of waves where we were all surfing around the leading edge of the dredge/beach renourishment project. This was one of the best days from that run with a nice 10 second swell running. These projects happen so frequently here that even with the wave log I get my years and seasons confused. We always cross our fingers that the decent sandbars they cover will come back with similar form.
• 9/6 – 9/10 – One thing that was so great for our students about this season was the consistency. Earl produced and produced… starting around 9/6 the waves were over chest high until 9/14. Around this time we also had a sandbar that worked for pretty much any tide. When the wind and power came together on 9/13 many of them were ready to take advantage.

Data

1) Wave Heights

2) Water Temperature

3) Wind: Onshore vs. Offshore (Choppy vs. Clean)

4) General Wind Wave Direction

5) Swell Period in Seconds

Filipe Toledo and Ryota Matsushita:

1) Gaining speed: Whether it’s simply using gravity in Filipe’s case or finishing one last pump in Ryota’s case power surfing requires speed. They have most likely already identified the section at this point.

2) Getting low and reaching for the wave: Both surfers seem to be opting for a mid-face bottom turn rather than a deep bottom turn.

3) Winding up and springing out of the bottom turn: Both surfers throw their back arm back and lead toward the section with their front arm or shoulder. If their shoulders were roughly perpendicular to their stringer in the previous frames they have become parallel to their stringer or a few degrees past parallel across the stringer here.

4) Beginning the heel side top turn: Both surfers have straight front legs and bent back legs. Their leading front arm is relaxed the back arm is over the toe side rail for balance.

5) Opening up the arms: As both surfers reach for the water in the direction they are headed they open up their arms to create a turning axis and get a bit of extension as their back arm creates space from the back foot. The extension is more prominent with Filipe, Ryota may be nursing the turn a little given the much smaller wave and lack of a trailer fin.

6) Anchoring the leading arm in the wave face and bringing the back arm forward: Both surfers have their leading arm relaxed and planted in the wave face bringing the trailing arm and shoulder across the body allows for powerful rotation.

7) Beginning the follow through: As both surfers start to compress they bring their trailing arm and shoulder more fully forward and across their body in the direction their board is headed.

8) Finishing the follow through: The exaggerated follow through is mainly due to how long they hold the water with their leading arm. Both surfers are fully compressed with one arm over each rail for balance, leading arm still holding the wave face, and weight on the front foot.

9) Switching the anchor or pivot arm: Both surfers reach for the water with their trailing arm and start to shift their weight back to the tail to begin turning back down the line.

10) Weight on the back foot to re-engage the fins: As long as they come out of the maneuver with enough speed both surfers can shift their weight onto the back foot, re-engage the fins, and complete the turn back down the line.

11) Finish: surfers at this level tend to complete maneuvers in a relaxed posture that allows them to seamlessly transition into another turn.

Gabriel Medina’s take:

The following is Emily Moore’s favorite sequence from her Spring 2021 Surf League Homework extra credit. This sequence is a great illustration of a high level surfer looking at the top of the wave and then the bottom of the wave. Intermediate surfers do not have to try this maneuver above the lip. Using similar body mechanics on the face of the wave might lead to an exciting, fin drifting snap if executed properly or a reverse without the air which is an advanced maneuver you often see from Sally Fitzgibbons, Carissa Moore, Tatiana Weston-Webb and others.

1)Reaching for the wave, looking up (where she wants to go).

2)Winding up, shoulders facing the top of the wave.

3)Looking down (where she wants to go), shoulders halfway rotated back down, arms out like Caroline. A backside bottom turn and a frontside top turn are both heelside turns and often look very similar.

4)Looking down (where she wants to go), shoulders fully rotated back down.

5) Low with one hand on each side of the board in a position similar to our surf squats.

6) Still low to the board in order to ride out as cleanly as possible.

Below is Carissa Moore’s air from the WSL Newcastle event for a regular foot comparison. More height, slower rotation. If you are interested in seeing how similar body mechanics apply to a turn on the face of the wave check out Chauncey Robinson from the 2018 Florida Pro here.

In anticipation of surfing’s debut at the 2021 Olympics in Japan we thought we would share 4 videos of Japanese surfers surfing and competing in conditions similar to what we often experience in Florida.

Winter, surfer: Nanaho Tsuzuki

Zburh [Pocket], surfer: Naomi Kobayashi

Surfing Girl, surfers: Sara Wakita, Shino Matsuda, Mahina Maeda

Surfing, surfers: Kanoa Igarashi, Hiroto Ohhara, Shun Murakami

Homework:

Part 1) Choose one surfer featured in the videos above (Nanaho Tsuzuki, Naomi Kobayashi, Sara Wakita, Shino Matsuda, Mahina Maeda, Kanoa Igarashi, Hiroto Ohhara, or Shun Murakami) use 2 adjectives from the “Surfing Adjectives” list to describe their surfing. Example: Shun Murakami is Nimble and Powerful

Extra Credit) Come up with one adjective of your own, not on the list, to describe the surfer you chose.

Surfing Adjectives

Active, Agile, Aggressive, Bold, Beautiful, Brilliant, Calm, Carefree, Casual, Committed, Composed, Confident, Cool, Controlled, Creative, Dazzling, Elegant, Energetic, Exciting, Experimental, Fast, Fearless, Flamboyant, Flashy, Graceful, Imaginative, Innovative, Intense, Nimble, Offbeat, Polished, Powerful, Radical, Refined, Relaxed, Rhythmic, Smooth, Spontaneous, Stylish, Unconventional

Part 2) Use 2 adjectives from the “Surfing Adjectives” list to describe how you want to surf. Example: I want to surf casual and fearless.

Extra Credit) Come up with one adjective of your own, not on the list, to describe how you want to surf.

Extra Credit) Give us Homework. Send us a link to a surf video (Youtube, Instagram, etc..) and the time (in minutes and seconds) of a wave or maneuver in the video that shows surfing that you would like to be able to do. We will create a photo sequence of important moments during the wave or maneuver for you to study and imitate.

Turn in your homework as a typed or handwritten sheet or email it to us on or before May 23.

Part 1-A) Mental Representations – Excellent Surfers in Waves like Ours

As the site for Surfing’s debut as an Olympic event in Summer 2021 you may be surprised how much Japan has in common with Florida. The most consistent surf zone in Japan is the East Coast and their best surf is created by typhoons just as our best surf is due to tropical storms or hurricanes. Below you will find 3 videos of Japan’s top surfers warming up for the Japan Open in waves similar to our own.

Part 1-B) Additonal viewing (Extra Credit):
2020 Japan Open Final Day – Womens Highlights
2020 Japan Open Final Day – Mens Highlights

Part 2) Homework
(Submit via email anytime before Friday’s practice or as a typed or handwritten page at Friday’s practice.)

2-A) Tell us your favorite surfer and write one sentence why. (Feel free to come up with someone on your own or choose someone from the videos above or our list of surfers below).

2-B) Using Youtube or Instagram find a video of your favorite surfer that shows them surfing. Tell us the name of the video if using Youtube or the Instagram handle and date the video was posted if using Instagram.

2-C) In the video you have selected tell us the time in minutes and seconds (format mm:ss example 00:11, 02:15) of your favorite wave or maneuver and write one sentence why.

Surf Asylum’s Favorite Surfers Shortlist
Descriptions and video links below list. (You are not required to watch all of the videos in the links below but feel free to use the videos for Part 2-C).

Brett Barley A dedicated East Coast surfer who specializes in barrel riding and airs. Video.

Courtney Conlogue One of the strongest and most creative surfers on the Womens World Tour. Video 1. Video 2.

Ethan EwingOne of the smoothest styles and most functional stances in modern surfing. Video.

Italo Ferreira 2019 World Champion and one of the most consistent surfers in the air in the world. Video.

Sally Fitzgibbons One of the hardest working surfers on the Womens World Tour. Sally is also a great runner and all around athlete. Video 1. Video 2.

John John Florence World Champion surfer who credits his surfing success to the community on the North Shore of Oahu and their love and respect for the ocean. Video.

Stephanie Gilmore Considered one of the most stylish surfers of our time. Video.

Evan Geiselman An excellent Florida surfer from New Smyrna Beach. Video.

Mateus Herdy A young Brazilian surfer who is fast and light on his feet. Video.

Kanoa Igarashi Raised in Huntington Beach but representing Japan in the 2021 Olympics. Kanoa is a hardworking competitive surfer. Video.

Riaru Ito A young Japanese surfer who is light on his feet. Similar to Brett Barley he is confident in the air and in the tube. Video.

Caroline Marks Young Floridian Womens World Tour surfer known for powerful backhand surfing. Video.

Carissa Moore One of the most powerful surfers on the Womens World Tour. Video.

Isabella Nichols An athletic soccer player and surfer with great technique. Video 1.Video 2.

Hiroto Ohhara Small in stature but lightning fast and great in the air. Winner of the 2015 US Open of Surfing. Video.

Rachel Presti A dedicated Florida surfer who excelled in ESA competition and has gone on to compete on the WSL Qualifying Series in hopes of making it on to the World Tour. Video.

Chauncey Robinson A Florida surfer from Sebastian Inlet who has had great results on the WSL Junior Tour. Video.

Caity Simmers One of the best young surfers out of California right now. Video.

Amuro Tsuzuki A powerful Japanese surfer who has been successful on both the WSL Womens Qualifying Series and Pro Junior Tour. Video.

Tyler Wright One of Australia’s best surfers. She recently made a successful comeback from an almost year long battle with complications from a virus. Video.

1) What’s possible on midlength surfboards

Beau Young and Leah Dawson prove that midlengths which aren’t quite longboards and aren’t quite shortboards can be ridden with radical, playful style.

2) Solid fundamentals and refined technique

Tyler Wright and Matt Banting exhibit near flawless surfing technique in relatable sized surf. We believe that with dedication you all can surf like anything you see.

3) Pros in Florida waves

In the winters of 2018 and 2019 some of the worlds best surfers traveled to compete at Sebastian Inlet in Melbourne, FL. Surf Asylum was there and we created these videos to show the basic elements of intermediate and advanced surfing. Mirrored for Goofy or Regular.

Homework: Featured below are links to 6 videos representing different styles of surfing. Watch each video, choose your favorite and write one paragraph why. Due date Wednesday July 29, typed or handwritten.

1) Late Morning –

2) Involvement Test –

3) Caroline Marks –

4) Coffee Break Session –

5) Peanut Butter –

6) Funfetti at the Jetty –

Extra Credit: Watch the 4 additional videos below. Choose your favorite and write one paragraph why. Due date Wednesday July 29, typed or handwritten.

1) Yours Truly, Mateus Herdy –

2) Ladybirds –

3) Mikey February’s Quiver –

4) Paige Alms’ Barrel at Jaws –

Recommended Reading: John John Florence’s ideas about surfing align very closely with Surf Asylum’s core values in his piece below:

“The Ocean is Everything”

Bring your paragraph (and optional extra credit paragraph) with you on a piece of paper, printed or handwritten, by Wednesday (July 29) of Advanced Week.